Reptiles

Guidelines for the Rescue and Rehabilitation of Reptiles.

O.N.A.R.R. does not recommend that you pick up any reptile, bird or animal
that may cause you harm. We suggest you contact a registered carer or register
head within this group or any other registered wildlife group to handle any
situation in which either yourself or the animal is put in peril. For any kind of
snake, we recommend that you contact a person who has experience in handling
snakes before you taking any other steps.

Reptiles can come to us with a huge variety of ailments and injuries, but all of them will be
suffering from shock and stress. Reptiles can, and will, shut themselves down until they die when
overcome with the shock of an injury and the stress of human contact.
When caring for reptiles, the three main requirements are heat, water and solitude. Other treatments
will depend on the injury.
Reptiles will continue to stress while in care, so release as soon as possible.
When transporting reptiles, it is best to use drawstring bags or pillowcases. The animals settle in the
bags, unable to see or smell much, which keeps them calmer than if they were in a tub. If you find
an injured reptile, and are awaiting a carer to pick it up, using a pillowcase will keep it calm.
Please remember, that a wildlife carers permit does not allow you to keep venomous snakes for any
more than 72 hours. They must be handed to a carer with a restricted reptiles permit.

Snakes
Always remember, safety first. If you are not 100% positive on the ID of the snake, treat it as
though it is venomous. Use snake hooks, head pinning tools or even a long stick to pick up the
snake. By holding the tail at the vent area, you can use the hook or stick to pick up the rest of the
body. Have deep drawstring bags ready and always put the snake in the bag head first.
Whilst in care, keep the snake in a clip seal tub. Snakes do not require UV lighting. Use newspaper
or paper towel on the flooring, a water dish big enough for the animal to get into and an old cereal
box or ice cream container for a hide area. The hide box should be just big enough for the snake to
curl up in securely. Only one quarter of the tub should be placed onto a heat mat. Put the hide in the
end on the heat, and the water at the cooler end. The heat mat should be running 24 hours a day.
Depending on the treatment needed, limit your contact with the animal to only the times treatment
is to be administered. Never keep a snake in captivity longer than needed. It is rare for wild snakes
to feed in care, and depending on the species, it is highly possible you will not be able to obtain the
meals required. Not all snakes eat rodents and not many will take a thawed rat, so the sooner they
get back to the wild, the sooner they will feed for themselves.
For treatment of injuries, it is always best to consult a vet. Minor cuts and abrasions can simply be
treated with betadine, or medihoney. Antibacterial bath is also available from vets. More serious
wounds should be treated by the vet who can administer any antibiotics or other treatments.

Lizards
As with snakes, transport injured lizards using a bag or pillowcase. Injured lizards are best kept out
doors, where they can get natural sunlight. Whilst you can set up lizard enclosures with UV lighting
inside, the wild animal will recover much quicker if kept in it’s normal environment. Small aviaries
are perfect for housing lizards, as long as the flooring is wired. Lizards can, and do, dig. Provide
hollow logs, leafy climbing branches and a water source deep enough for the lizard to be able to sit
in. If the lizard has many hiding spots, it will feel more secure. As with snakes, limit your
interaction with the animal to administering treatment.
Lizards are fairly easy to feed in a captive environment. They will not always feed if they are aware
of you. By placing a dish of fresh vegetables and fruit in the enclosure, or by releasing crickets or
wood roaches, and walk away, the lizard will more than likely feed.
Sharyn Young – March 2008
A list of food items for lizards is available for O.N.A.R.R carers.
For treatment of injuries, it is always best to consult a vet. Minor cuts and abrasions can simply be
treated with betadine, or medihoney. Antibacterial bath is also available from vets. More serious
wounds should be treated by the vet who can administer any antibiotics or other treatments.

Turtles
Pillowcases are also the best transport option for turtles. It is fine for a turtle to completely dry out,
but as they do not drink, they do need to be kept in water. Also requiring UV light, Turtles in care
are best kept outdoors. Aviaries with large ponds are perfectly suited for turtles. You can use
anything you like for a pond, but the turtle will need to be able to leave the pond, and return as it
wishes. It needs to be at least 5 times the size of the turtle. Turtles do need a lot of room, but in
short term care, a smaller area will suffice.
Small cuts and abrasions can be treated just as with snakes and lizards. Shell trauma is something
only a vet can treat.

Disease control
Disease control protocol should always be observed, whether you have your own captive reptiles or not.
Keep care reptiles outside, or in an area of your home where people and other pets cannot come into contact with them.
Wash your hands before and after treating the animal. Reptiles can pick up diseases from us, just as we can from them.
Sterilize any equipment you use in between use. This includes the tubs, water dishes etc, once the reptile has been released. In the case of outdoor aviaries, thoroughly rinse out ponds and dishes.
Hose down the entire aviary and leave to sun dry for as long as possible.
Bleach is a great sterilizer, just remember to rinse thoroughly.

Sharyn Young – March 2008 ©