Build a Bat House
  

Build a Bat House

Bats are good neighbors to have around as they are a great natural pest controller. You can help by providing bats with a nice bat house in your garden. Bats like tight and warm spaces. They like it to be 80 to 100 degrees when they have their young with them. The bat house should be placed in the sun and around 12 to 15 feet off the ground to prevent predators from getting them.
Important: It is suggested that you use water based paints to keep down paint odor that might repel bats.
Placing your Bat House
Bats need morning warmth, so be careful of where you place your bat house.  Bats will not live in the most gorgeous bat house if it is not properly placed.  Avoid shady locations if you live in a cool climate. 

  • A bat house needs a minimum of seven hours of morning sunlight.
  • A bat house is more likely to be used if mounted on a post rather than a tree.  Boxes in trees do not receive enough direct sunlight in cool climates.
  • Bat houses placed on a house or garage, directly under the eves will be unlikely to get occupants. This area is too shaded.  
  • Bats like permanent water. Dry, arid locations are less desirable, though bats will drink from swimming pools.
  • Bats do not like bright surfaces which reflect light into box. If you place a container under the box to collect guano ensure it does not have a reflective surface.
  • Ensure the box is not located near air vents or chimneys where smoke or strong wind will disturb bats. Be aware of air conditioner units which may not be active when installation occurs.
  • Shaking the bat house to watch them fly out during the daytime will only ensure your bats abandon the roost.
  • Do not erect near brightly lighted areas. Avoid mounting where dusk-to-dawn lights shine directly onto the box.
  • Bat boxes need maintenance. Bats will not share with hornets or wasps, and they do not like gaps in the timber.  If the seams split you will need to do repairs to the box. 

SINGLE CHAMBER BAT HOUSE
These plans are made using imperial measurements – feet and inches


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Materials Needed (makes 1)
1/4 sheet ( 2' x 4' ) 1/2" (outdoor grade) plywood. DO NOT use pressure treated wood.
One piece 1" x 2" (3/4" x 1 1/2" finished) x 8' pine (furring strip)
20-30 exterior grade screws, 1"
One pint dark, water-based stain, exterior grade
One pint water-based primer, exterior grade
One quart flat water-based paint or stain, exterior-grade
One tube paintable latex caulk
1" x4" x 28" board for roof
Black asphalt shingles or galvanized metal (optional)
6-10 roofing nails, 7/8" (optional)

Construction Procedure
1. Measure and cut plywood into three pieces:
   26 1/2" x 24"
   16 1/2" x 24"
   5" x 24"
2. Roughen inside of backboard and landing area by cutting horizontal grooves with sharp object or saw. Space grooves about 1/2" apart, cutting 1/16" to 1/32" deep.
3. Apply two coats of dark, water-based stain to interior surfaces. Do not use paint, as it will fill grooves, making them unusable.
4. Measure and cut furring into one 24" and two 20 1/2" pieces.
5. Attach furring strips to back, caulking first. Start with 24" piece at top. Roosting chamber will be 3/4" wide (front to back).
6. Attach front to furring strips, top piece first (don't forget to caulk). Leave 1/2" vent space between top and bottom front pieces.
7. Caulk around all outside joints to further seal roosting chamber.
8. Attach a 1" x 3" x 28" board to the top as a roof, if desired (optional, but highly recommended).
9. Paint or stain exterior three times (use primer for first coat).
10. Cover roof with shingles or galvanized metal (optional).
11. Mount on a pole or tree (south or east sides usually best).
You can make the house using more chambers if preferred.